Link investor

Prada, Zegna, OTB, More Link for Consortium on Product’s End-Of-Life – WWD

MILAN — The Italian fashion governing body’s commitment to the sustainable advancement of the sector targets another key environmental issue: the end of life of fashion products.

Six founding members of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana launch Re.Crea, a consortium to collectively provide solutions and best practices to manage post-consumer fashion waste, with the ultimate goal of giving it a second life through recycling .

Founding members of Re.Crea include Prada Group, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, OTB, Moncler, MaxMara Fashion Group and Dolce & Gabbana. The initiative was presented on Friday at the headquarters of Camera della Moda here.

The move follows a 2018 European Union mandate on EPR, Extended Producer Responsibility, which asks companies to take operational and financial responsibility for managing the post-consumer and end-of-life stage. life of their products in order to help respect recycling. and recovery goals.

In 2021, textile waste in Italy amounted to 480,000 tons, including 146,000 post-consumer clothes, Camera della Moda said, citing a report published by the Ministry of Ecological Transition.

The latter institution is responsible for translating the European Union’s mandate into implementing decrees, which should be published by the end of the year.

“Italy comes second after France in applying Europe’s mandate,” said Camera della Moda president Carlo Capasa, who will also serve as president of the consortium. “I think it’s great that our Italian brands have decided to ask for a collective protocol.

“Acting as a system is a testament to the ‘generosity’ of brands and an exceptionally forward-looking attitude. You can only be sustainable if the criteria are adopted collectively,” he said.

Re.Crea is open to any Camera della Moda member interested in joining. Its board of directors currently includes Sara Mariani, director of sustainability for OTB, who has been named vice-president of the consortium; Lorenzo Bertelli, Head of CSR of the Prada Group, and Edoardo Zegna, Director of Marketing, Digital and Sustainability of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, among others.

It will also welcome companies from outside the association, provided that their annual turnover is not less than 500 million euros.

Capasa attributed the decision to ensuring that “the consortium has common goals, including research and development goals and a common cultural mindset on the [sustainability] topic.”

Among the key functions of the consortium, R&D on key solutions to sustainably manage post-consumer fashion waste will require huge investments and Re.Crea wants to ensure that any active partner can finance the operations.

The necessary investment, financed by the members, remains to be determined as it will depend on the operational scale and scope to be defined by the decrees of the Italian government.

For example, Mariani said Italy’s first waste management target should be 15% of the total post-consumer fashion waste produced each year. In comparison, France, which launched a similar program ten years ago, currently recycles around 38% of its fashion waste.

“Our brands are about the future, it’s not just about complying with laws and regulations. … We want the experience gained on the ‘second life’ of products to be shared among associates,” said Capasa. “Tackling the end-of-life of products directly can ensure that waste management operations run smoothly, so it’s also good for brand reputation.

In order to provide effective solutions, Capasa has planned that the consortium will forge links with fashion supply chain actors active in the fields of recycling and the circular economy, as well as links with companies outside the fashion system.

Asked about leaving out the bulk of textile companies, whose waste in Italy in 2021 amounted to 284,000 tons, taking into account the limit of 500 million euros, Capasa said that other associations fashion companies were planning similar initiatives.

Re.Crea will be presented in full on October 28 at the Venice Sustainable Fashion Forum organized by Camera della Moda, industry association Sistema Moda Italia and consultancy The European House – Ambrosetti.